It’s a drag saluting that starry rag
The title of this album refers to the inventor of instant ramen (‘he fed those who study’ as it says int he liner notes), and reflects on the quick and dirty way in which this was put together. It’s an ‘and friends’ sort of deal, with Elvis throwing together a bunch of songs with his friends, and for all that, it’s remarkably well-honed. That is, until you realize that Costello has been doing this for over thirty years now and he can toss off lines like ‘the night is black as cracked shellac’ easier than pouring a morning tea.
Where the speed of this album shows through is in its spirit. Momofuku is about as just plain fun as you can find in Costello’s discography. It has all the heraldic rock style of his classic stuff with none of the bitter baggage and drear of his more recent rock outings. Having spent a good part of the nineties following his bliss wherever it led him (usually far afield from what a large portion of his fanbase had any interest in), it’s gratifying and refreshing to hear him just have a great time rocking out, with guests including Jonathan Rice and Jenny Lewis.
Now, not that there isn’t a lot being said on Momofuku. “No Hiding Place” is a sharp appraisal of the new and growing voyeurism of society (with some beautiful pedal steel by Beachwood Sparks’ Dave Scher, too). “American Gangster Time” is the sort of savage, blistering attack on politics he used to make toward ol’ battle-ax Maggie Thatcher, leveled at the current American political system. Make no mistake, this is as well-crafted as any of Costello’s work, just more driven and dynamic, less fussy than recent releases.
****
Leave a Reply